Thursday 17 September 2015

A Coastal Village

Bosham* is a small, picturesque Sussex village in Chichester harbour, about twenty minutes from where I live, and it's one of my favourite places in the world. I've wanted to share it with you for some time because I think you'll get why I like it, with it's beautiful houses and gardens, coastal location, and rich history.

We usually visit the main part of the village which is clustered around the church and sailing club. My preferred past time here is to walk very slowly and stare longingly at the houses. I like to speculate on what the owners might be like and what the buildings might look like inside. They come in all shapes and sizes - cottages, manor houses, terraces - and in varying styles. There are thatched roofs and many are built with flint, a local material and something I very much associate with this area. 



They have an abundance of charm and quirks though, and no two look the same. One interesting feature which you see a lot is a "flood door" like the one below. 


All the houses near the water have these, and for good reason. This, below, is a road at high tide. At low tide cars will be parked there and an ice cream van sometimes. At very high tides parts of roads around the village can be completely cut off and flooding must be a constant concern for residents.


(This is my reality check when I get too carried away with my dreams about living here. That and the shockingly expensive property prices.)

And the gardens. Some are simply and elegantly landscaped with a few trees and acres of lawn,


Others are a riot of cottage garden colour.


Many houses facing the water have their gardens at the front of the property, rather than the back. How thoughtful of them, so that we can all have a good nosey and admire their hard work. 


I love how this place is all about the sea, and there's no escaping it; it's in the architecture, the history, and the lives of the people who live here. There is a large dinghy sailing community here with a thriving sailing club. 


Sailing clubs always make me feel at home in a place. I grew up in a sailing family and spent a lot of time on boats as a child; the gentle clinking sound of rigging blowing against a mast combined with the salty smell of seaweed relaxes me. (That might sound weird, I know.)


There are wide and generous views across and around the harbour from every angle. I love to walk away from the village and see how it changes, what an attractive shape the cluster of buildings makes with the church spire in the centre.


You can walk right round the curve of the harbour so that you are directly facing the village. This is a favourite view of mine, when the tide is out and you can see the mud flats exposed.


Bosham is steeped in history. In 1064 King Harold sailed from Bosham to Normandy in France, and this event is depicted and Bosham even named in the Bayeaux Tapestry. And this area below, Quay Meadow, is where - according to local legend - King Canute  attempted to hold back the sea.


King Canute's eight year old daughter drowned in a nearby brook and was thought to have been buried in the tenth century church, Holy Trinity Church, although there are differing views of how much of that is true and how much is local lore, depending on what you read.


It's a tragic story, but a fascinating one too.


If it rains, there are crafty shops and lots of places for coffee and cake, and some very nice pubs too.



I hope you can you see why I like it so much, why I come here in all seasons and all weathers. In the spring and summer the gardens are enchanting and it's enough just to wander around and examine the details in the buildings and gardens. I've come here in the pouring rain and sat in the cafe with the big picture window over the harbour, watching the rain and the waves. And I've come in the middle of winter and been enchanted by the wide open skies and mud flats at low tide.




I would love to know about your favourite places. 




* Bosham is pronounced "Bozam" with a Z sound in the middle, not SH, as it's spelt. This makes no sense as twelve miles west is a town called Cosham and that is pronounced exactly as it looks like it should be, with the SH sound. Honestly, it's no wonder tourists can never pronounce our place names, we seem to make up the rules as we go.

51 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing one of your favorite locations, Gillian. Bosham is a lovely setting and has an interesting history which was fun to explore through your photos, your narrative and the links you provided. Flood doors are a home feature of which I was unaware. The Nubble Lighthouse in York, Maine, USA is a location I never tire of visiting because of the natural beauty of the huge rounded rocks one can clamor over and perch upon to view the lighthouse and the sea. When my youngest daughter was around the age of six, she found a little starfish between the rocks and struggled with the decision of whether to let the starfish die by taking it home with us, or giving it a chance to live longer by the sea. She decided to let it stay by the sea. Last year at about this time my then 39 year old son and I visited the Nubble Light again and I posted some photos of it on my blog....good memories xx

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  2. I'd never move to a place so near the water (be it a river, lake or the Sea) for the constant threat of being flooded, and I am amazed that property prices there are so high regardless the frequent floods. It certainly is a very beautiful and picturesque place, and I understand very well that you love it, no matter the season or weather.

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  3. That English coast.... Soooo gorgeous... If you compare that to our Belgian coastline (which is, in my humble opinion, just terribly ugly and hideous..)
    Lucky you for living so near to such a pretty place !

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  4. I have only visited Bosham a couple of times, it certainly is a lovely village. Reading your post has made me want to make a revisit. You are so lucky to live so close to the coast. xx

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  5. I love the oddness of pronunciations, fascinating aren't they. What a truly gorgeous place, and how wonderful it would be to live there amongst those beautiful houses and gardens. I love to take pictures of lovely homes, I'm always sticking my lens over the garden fence! There's a place near here called Frampton-on-Severn that I really enjoy, such a variety of houses, from the humble cottage to a huge Tudor farm, a medieval barn, an ancient church, a magnificent stately home, and everything in between. I think they're used to me and my camera by now! But I always think, if you live in a place of historical interest, you probably expect people to be snapping away. I know I wouldn't mind. Glad you had such a lovely visit, I'm wishing you and yours a good weekend. CJ xx

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  6. I love Bosham too, visited there frequently when we lived in Surrey. I have a painting hanging in my studio that was purchased directly from the artist in Bosham Walk.

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  7. But Bosham is so much more picturesque than Cosham! But Cosham is a good place for charity shop shopping!
    We will get here one day, I keep saying it I know but it's definitely on my list. Even more so now I've seen more of it today, oh those gardens!
    Lisa x

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  8. Meant to say there is a claim here in Southampton that the King Canute and the tide story happened here!
    Lisa x

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    1. Is there? Brilliant! I expect quite a few south coast towns and villages have similar claims.

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  9. Hi. I have spent a fair bit of time in Bosham, when my dad lived there. He obviously can't keep away from the sea as now we have to travel to the Isle of Skye to see him. We loved Bosham. The kids loved paddling in the road when the tide came in. I remember the warm tarmac heating the road very nicely.

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  10. In your neck of the woods I love Arundel though it's years since I went. We used to go often as a child. Up here it's Robin Hoods Bay and Whitby that draw me. Places to wander with no real purpose other than to look and be.

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    1. I've still never been to Robin Hoods Bay! Must rectify that. x

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  11. Your lucky to live so near to such a pretty place. One of my very favourite places to visit is Llandudno which isn't too far away from where I live. I know what you mean about some of the pronunciations, I work with a man who was born near London. The way he pronounces some of our Welsh villagers always causes much hilarity. In a good way of course x

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  12. What a wonderful village. As with many of these gorgeous places I was unaware of it, but will be sure to visit it some time this year when I go to see my daughter at Chichester University. One of my favourite places is Rye in East Sussex. It too is steeped in history and is one of the Cinque Ports (pronounced 'sink'), there are some wonderful houses/buildings but like Bosham they are shockingly expensive. The town was used as the setting for the Mapp and Lucia series shown on TV last year. Thanks for sharing Gillian and have a lovely weekend xx

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    1. I like the sound of Rye, but it's a good two and a half hours from me. Somewhere I'd like to visit though. x

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  13. Bosham looks lovely, and right on the sea with fantastic properties to covet. I can understand why you would want to visit often.
    I can't think of one single place that is my favourite. I like Filey for beside the sea, Bolton Abbey for a bit of majesty (and stepping stones), Ilkley for shops and moors and Reeth for being away from it all. Now I wish I was somewhere other than contemplating the ironing.....

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  14. Thank you for a lovely tour around Bosham, it is such a lovely village and one that I visited frequently when we used to spend time visiting family in Sussex.

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  15. what a great place looks fab, must put it on my list of places to see x

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  16. We had a couple of days in Bosham some years ago, stayed at a B&B called Hatpins. No idea if it's still there. And it was featured about 20 years ago in a TV film made by the late Nigel Farrell about the perfect English village, which started in London and he toured the country looking for the perfect English village (even visiting Castle Howard up there in Yorkshire) until he arrived back in London and found it in the village of Barnes on the outskirts of the city! Well, he considered it, at that time, the perfect English village!
    Margaret P

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  17. It sounds and looks amazing - I want to go there, too!

    I know a few places in Denmark giving me the same urge to return - Ribe, the oldest town i Scandinavia is one of them. I go there several times each year and am always happy to return!

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    1. I've just looked up Ribe and it looks incredibly picturesque. I can see why you return so frequently.

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  18. Oh my husband and I loved Bosham so it was lovely seeing all your photographs. They bought back such happy memories. Spent hours, and money, in the Craft Centre. You are very blessed living so near and being able to visit all the year round.

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  19. It certainly looks a lovely place to visit - lucky you being so near. I think I would worry about the flood risk though - we live near a river and (touch wood) it hasn't flooded yet but I don't think I could cope with a flood door! Have a good weekend. xx

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  20. What a lovely post about a beautiful place. How lucky you are to live so close to somewhere that is dear to your heart, and perhaps even better than living in it, with the possibility of floods! X

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  21. Beautiful Bosham, a favourite place for us to visit too (my husband was born and bred in Chichester). I love all places where the line between land and sea is constantly shifting so the marshes in East Sussex and North Kent, Newtown on the IoW and Brightlingsea and Burnham on Crouch in Essex are all favourite places. One of my oldest friends has recently moved to a house on the shore in Bosham (they sold their modest Putney semi) so I've been visiting lots this year. Our favourite thing is to sail across in a Tideway dinghy to East Head for a picnic (I grew up in a sailing family too). Maybe one day I will live close enough to the sea to resume sailing, the reservoirs and gravel pits near here just don't do it for me! To get an even closer look at some of the beautiful gardens Gillian you will have to visit Bosham Gardens Open Day next held in June 2017.

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    1. I know exactly what you mean! I like the smell of the mud flats too.

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  22. What a beautiful place, I can see why you love it so. If it has a craft shop it has to be a great place :-) One of my favourite places has to be Alfriston in East Sussex. Another beautiful village with old houses and shops, a village green outside the church and a river. I hope you all have a lovely weekend. xx

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    1. Thanks for the tip - maybe when I visit Rye I can call in to Alfriston too.

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  23. This is a gorgeous place Gillian - thanks for sharing. I will add it to the England "must see" list! Those flood doors are really interesting.

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  24. What a great place, I have never been but now I want to!, one of my favourite places is Rye East Sussex, i love the cobbled streets and building of yesteryear. Enjoy your weekend!xx

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  25. What a beautiful place. I love this time of year as it is great for the house voyeur in me. When I walk the dog and people have their lights on inside I get a little glimpse in! Does that make me odd?

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  26. Thank you for bringing back lots of happy memories with your wonderful photos of Bosham. At trip down to the harbour is always a must when we visit West Sussex. I know just what you mean about the gentle chinking of the rigging on the masts, it always makes me feel relaxed too. Older members of our family (in their 90's) who grew up in Southsea pronounce Cosham with a Z, which makes me wonder has the pronunciation changed over time or is particular to certain areas? Isn't language amazing?!

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    1. That's really interesting, I didn't know that. My grandma always used to insist on pronouncing Cosham with a Z too, but she wasn't local to the area.

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  27. what a lovely lovely place to visit x

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  28. Gosh, such a pretty place - I have never heard of it before. I particularly like your photo looking across the mudflats. Thank you for sharing.
    Caz xx

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  29. I really enjoyed this post, Gillian. Thank you for showing us around this beautiful place. I haven't spent much time near the sea, so I really like to visit through blogs that I read. The mudflats are interesting. Are they salty? We have salt flats in some parts of the US, from when they were underwater in previous parts of history. The pronunciation is interesting. I really like to learn about place names, their origins and how they're said because sometimes they can be really surprising. If you like that kind of thing to, a book that I love is The Story of English, and it goes into some of that. I particularly enjoyed reading about "thwaite" in Welsh (I think?) place names. It's been a while since I read it but it was very good. I hope you have a good weekend.

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    1. Yes, they are salty. They have quite a strong smell when the tide is out!

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  30. This looks like my kind of place. It looks really beautiful. My favourite places are by the sea or a river. Deal, a town just along the coast from us, is one. It's a great mix of seaside town with Georgian architecture and an eclectic mix of shops and cafes. London - the bits along the Thames - is another. Wishing you a relaxing weekend Gillian. Sam x

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    1. I've always wanted to go to Deal. Maybe I should have a holiday in East Sussex, then I can visit Rye and Alfriston too.

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  31. I have lived in land locked Shropshire all my life so coastal landscape always look so inviting. Jo x

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  32. It is easy to see why you like it so much, and what a beautiful day you had

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  33. It looks like a wonderful place to visit, such beautiful homes and such history! Just gorgeous, no wonder you love it so much.
    Hugs,
    Meredith

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  34. Finally decided to stop lurking and start commenting...not sure what held me back! but your comments about Bosham make me even more determined to go and visit it, it's been on my list of places to go for ages but I have never managed it, despite only being an hour from Chichester. It looks really pretty and I have heard that the crafty shops of Bosham walk are lovely to visit. Perhaps I'll make a special outing on a day off from work. Love your blog and the pictures and snippets of family life!

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  35. Goodness, it looks idyllic, no wonder you love to go there!

    S x

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  36. It does look lovely. If we're ever down that way it will be on the list for a visit!

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  37. English is a wonderful language. Just when you learn a rule....

    And there is absolutely nothing so nice as messing about in boats. (said Ratty)

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  38. Bosham is a fabulous place, and you've totally captured it's essence in these photographs.

    We're sort of plotting a move further into the Welsh hills, onto the side of a green valley that has all of Snowdonia for us to gaze upon. But the house we had our eyes on has sold so I guess we won't be headed to that favourite place anytime soon.

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  39. Thank you for sharing this wonderful trip with us! It looks like a very special place and what a luck that you had such great weather!!

    Take care
    Anne
    Crochet Between Worlds

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  40. How funny Bosham should pop up! My grandparents retired here, and we visited many many times in all weathers. Thanks for sharing,

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