Sunday, 30 August 2026

Norway: mountains and changing skies









 


Norway is really beautiful. I knew that, in theory, before we went, but I didn't know it. I hadn't seen it. I knew it was mountainous, but I didn't realise how much of the landscape was mountainous, or how impressive they would be, how dramatic. It is an incredibly beautiful country. It takes hours to get anywhere because all the roads have to go around or through rock but you don't mind because you're on holiday and it's so pretty.

We stayed in a cabin near a town called Gol which is on the edge of the mountains. Technically it is above Gol, taking 20 minutes along hairpin bends as your ears pop to get from the riverside town to our accommodation.


We stayed with our friends again, as we have done on previous holidays, renting a house that sleeps eight. This house had the best accommodation so far, but we made sure it did knowing how far we were from everything and that we would have days spent at the house,

As you can see it gave beautiful views of the surrounding landscape.




The house provided binoculars and a telescope which we made good use of,


You can just see the snow still on the furthest peaks in the distance.


It was particularly lovely at sunset. This main living room (with a kitchen and dining area) didn't have a TV and you didn't need one.  A perfect room for reading or just looking out of the window watching the sky.


We would alternate a long day out with a day at home. A typical day might involve popping into the supermarket in Gol or going for a walk around our cabin, then lunch at home, Afternoons might include another walk, reading, chilling but always a sauna followed by a plunge in the cold plunge tub or soak in the hot tub.

In the basement, there was a large TV and corner sofa, pool table and ping pong table so loads to do in bad weather and the evenings.


I did a little sewing on my holiday embroidery, adapting it so that it now features the four nordic countries we have visited over the last three years.


After dinner we would often go for another walk just to see the sunset. We never saw stars the whole time we were there as there was still light in the sky until 11 or 12 at night, and it was usually light by 5 am,


On the days we stayed in the local area, we enjoyed exploring out of season ski towns, churches and small museums. We walked by rivers and occasionally had lunch out.







A favourite walk from our cabin was to the top of this hill, which you can see John looking at through the binoculars below. 


It took an hour and involved a steep scramble but the views were stunning. The little structure at the summit is in fact a pile of rocks.


We walked (climbed) that hill most days, and in most weathers.




None of my photos capture the beauty or sheer scale of the mountains but I loved trying all the same. 



The journeys were long but always full of incredible views of mountains, trees, lakes and rivers.


Sheep are common. 

We travelled further afield as well, visiting places usually within two or three hours from our cabin.


We had a sunny day in Oslo and enjoyed exploring the harbour and a few museums. 




The highlight of the day for me was the Munch Museum. Munch is not an artist I know a lot about but the museum/gallery was excellent. Well-curated art, excellent cafe and good views from the top.



The picture everyone wants to see, The Scream, was underwhelming but luckily everything else was better.


My absolute favourite part though was not his art but a re-imagining of Munch's house, laid out for you to walk around with objects from his home. Inside pieces of furniture were holes. When you looked inside these holes, tiny Brambly Hedge-style miniature dioramas were hidden away, Magical.


Lillehammer was utterly charming and the views! The town itself is quite small and pretty, with many yarn shops and restaurants.





We spent some time exploring the town before heading up to the ski slopes which overlook the whole city and river beyond. We went up to the top and back down again on chair lifts (so much fun!) but you can also climb 900 steps if chair lifts feel a bit too perilous.



Kistefos Art Museum was lovely. It is a sculpture park built in the grounds of an old paper mill, with a gallery ("the twist") that forms a bridge over the river.



There were lots of gentle walks and trails around the river, art everywhere, some museums and a very good cafe and gift shop.




Another excellent day was to see Borgund Stave Church. This was probably the most touristy of all the places we visited, and gets really busy when coaches arrive, but still worth going. The drive alone is incredibly beautiful in the most wild and "don't look down" kind of way.


Borgund is a good example (I read) or a stave church. Stave churches are all wood, very old and specific to Norway. There used to be thousands but now only a few remain and they are impressive when you remember how long ago they were built and how many centuries they have stood standing.


The food in Norway is really expensive but really good. Eating out is comparable to the UK, maybe a little more expensive, but supermarkets shopping was eye-wateringly expensive compared to home. We shopped sensibly but still had treats. I adore rye bread, the crackers they sell which as a bit like Ryvita, and tinned fish so I feel like it is all my favourite types of food, This was a typical lunch at home.



The type of open sandwich popular in Denmark is also sold in Norway and I made sure to try it whenever I could.



Actually, one of the best meals I had was on the last night when we ate in a restuarant in Gol. I had moose patties (like giant, tender meatballs), boiled potatoes and redcurrant jam with a gravy very similar to those sold in Sweden and Denmark. It was amazing. All cooked to perfection. It felt like quite a cold-weather meal but the weather was often cool in Norway. The sky constantly changed between sun and cloud, and it was much colder up on the mountain than down in Gol. Honestly, the cooler temperatures were so nice after an incredibly hot and humid summer in England and we welcomed them.

This was the best thing I ate however, and I am very sad I only discovered it at the end of the holiday, I wonder when liquorice ice cream will become popular in the UK....


But an excellent holiday. A balance of busy and quiet, lots of rest, lots of walking, lots of reading. I did buy a few souvenirs but not much as we weren't often in places with lots of gift shops. The time with my little family, and our friends, was treasured. I don't know how many more holidays we will have when the children still want to join us. I recommend Norway very much (even though it is expensive - it's worth it!) and would very much like to return to see Bergen and the fjords, Tromso and the Lofoten Islands.